Aboard the Victoria III, I was floating down a turquoise river so clear that I could see the rocks below; we passed lush, terraced hillsides and rock formations so unique they must have been dreamt up by Walt Disney himself. The weather was beautiful, the sound of my camera shutter opening and closing served as background music and all I could think was, "It can't get much better than this."

When I first was invited to. go to China, an emphatic "Yes!" was out of my mouth before I thought about. whether a trip fit into my "real world" plans at the moment.

However, I was only halfway through my 16-day tour of China and I would have this same thought many times over before my return flight from 'Beijing.

It was the perfect destination for my first trip since September 11 -- it held a wonderful mix of sights, did not require a horrendously long flight (only 12 hours to Beijing from the West Coast) and offered an environment where I felt completely safe, more so than in some places I've been at home.

Along with my travel mates, I was met in Vancouver by Chris Lee, owner of China Plus, who often serves as tour director for many of his tours (as does his wife, Ping). I would soon discover the benefit of having a truly skilled travel specialist guiding us through this fascinating country.

Chris is a native of China and has shared his country with travelers since 1979. His knowledge of the culture and history of China, as well as his connections in all the cities visited, made this tour an unforgettable experience.

Shanghai and Suzhou

We began our tour in Shanghai, arriving in late afternoon. Welcomed by our local guide, we were taken to the Jin Jiang Hotel, where we would spend the next three nights, and were allowed an unplanned evening to recover from the flight and time change or to explore the streets of Shanghai.

I chose to join some of the group and explore the shopping district located nearby. However, I did not yet feel as if I were too far from home. The illuminated department stores, handsomely dressed shoppers and enormous billboards smacked of San Francisco.

I would learn in the morning just how modern this city has become, with an incredible amount of renovation over the past decade changing the face of Shanghai. While it was not what I had expected, I found it a remarkable city nonetheless -- men and women in suits riding bicycles en masse past sleek highrises, beautifully maintained parks and newly planted trees.