IN THE PANTHEON OF REVERED Hawaiian resort hotels, a trio of landmarks stands out. For decades, the oldest and grandest hostelries on Honolulu's fabled Waikiki Beach--the Halekulani, Sheraton Moana Surfrider, and Royal Hawaiian--have, with style and grace, fulfilled travelers' most demanding notions of what a posh South Seas lodging should be.

Rich with tradition yet gussied up by lavish renovations, these three dowager duchesses of Hawaiian hotels are still the places to stay on the island of Oahu. Each possesses a descriptive moniker--a sure sign of their beloved place in island lore.

"PINK PALACE OF THE PACIFIC"

Moorish-Spanish in architectural style and pink all over, the Royal Hawaiian opened to great fanfare in 1927. Both locals and visitors were all agog with news of this splendid hostelry, and its opening lived up to the hype. A Hawaiian princess stage-managed a re-enactment of the 1795 landing on Waikiki of the Hawaiian royal, Kamehameha, as masses of outrigger canoes--manned by locals in warrior attire--paddled ashore.

This became for a time the islands' premier resort; for years the likes of Al Jolson and Ruby Keeler, Shirley Temple, and President Franklin Roosevelt came to stay. More recent guests have included Kevin Costner, Harrison Ford, and Michael Caine.

The bombing of Pearl Harbor and onset of World War II stopped the fun for a while, and as barbed wire was stretched across the sands out front, the hotel tucked away its gilded furnishings and leased the place to the Navy for sailors' R & R. After the war, the Royal Hawaiian regained its footing as one of the best resorts on Waikiki.

In the last decade, a $25-million renovation spruced up the "Pink Palace of the Pacific," and, like her two dowager-duchess sisters along the beach, she retains the luxe atmosphere of bygone days. Today, guests are treated to fresh-baked banana bread upon arrival; a special pool elevator allows those in beachwear to avoid mixing with the black-tie-and-tails folk as they sally forth for evening engagements; and a most considerate Hospitality Suite exists to accommodate the needs of early check-ins and late departures.

The Monday night Royal Luau--the only oceanfront luau on Waikiki Beach--welcomes guests with leis, mai tais, and an elaborate buffet dinner highlighted by a roasted kalua pig.