In June '99 six of us flew to China (using our frequent-flier mileage). There, we traveled with Ritz Tours (428 So. Atlantic Blvd. #101, Monterey Park, CA 91754; phone 626-289-2450 or fax 626-281-0117) and, to emphasize, we were only six the entire trip. Perfect! We had a 21-day trip and everything was covered with the exception of lunch and dinners in Hong Kong.

Covered were five internal flights; two train trips; insurance; all meals in mainland China and breakfasts in Hong Kong; all hotels (which were outstanding); five days on the Yangtze with an outside cabin, all meals and all excursions from the ship; a guide with us in mainland China, in addition to a guide in each city, including Hong Kong, and a van to take the six of us touring. All this was covered for $4,400 for two -- a terrific value!

Briefly, our itinerary was Beijing, Hangzhou, Suzhou, Shanghai, Wuhan, Chongqing, Xi'an, Guilin, Guangzhou and Hong Kong.

We spent several days in and around Beijing going to the Great Wall, the Forbidden City, the Ming Tombs, etc. The city is ringed with mountains and we simply had not expected such a beautiful setting. One has to see such wonders as the Great Wall, which stretches about 4,000 miles over impossible terrain, to appreciate the effort in such construction.

The Forbidden City is truly a complex with not only buildings and temples but statuary of turtles, phoenixes and dragons. One can now tour where for centuries only the emperor and his court could walk.

There are 13 million people living in Beijing, with another three million "floating." All cities have populations in the millions, and one can see the need for population control to feed and house such a number.

Hangzhou is a slower-paced city and a beautiful one, with tree-lined streets and gorgeous gardens, including Flower Harbor. We had a boat tour here on West Lake. The gardens of China use architecture, pagodas and statuary to enhance them. In this city there was a walkway which had vividly painted sections with Chinese scenes, reminding us of similar ones in Lucerne, Switzerland.

Outside Hangzhou we were taken to a tea plantation where we learned how to make tea properly and about the medicinal properties of green tea.

We next took a train to Suzhou where we stayed at the spectacular Sheraton Hotel. It looks like an enormous fort with pagodas atop the walls. Inside courts have used water and foliage to advantage.