It's herding cows and riding the dusty range from dawn till dusk. That's pretty much a cowboy's life. His respite comes later, when he sits around the campfire, strumming his ukulele or weaving flowers for his headband, his horse, or maybe even his wife.

Weave flowers? You heard me right. Paniolos, the tough Hawaiian cowboys, find the flower thing relaxing.

Two hundred years ago, when only Indians roamed the West, Hawaiian cowboys herded cattle along high ridges ringed by the sea. These paniolos were out of reach of the islands' missionaries, so they maintained many Hawaiian traditions. Today most of the big ranches are gone, but parts of Hawaii preserve their colorful cowboy past.

On the island of Maui, Route 390 will take you upcountry to Makawao, one of the last paniolo towns in the state. At first glance you'll think you are in Dodge City, circa 1850. In the 1950s and '60s Makawao was the place where fighting, drinking, and cavorting cowboys hung out. The Rodeo General Store still exists, but these days most of the stores offer souvenirs, health foods, and jewelry; some house coffee shops and art galleries.

Just off the main drag are the rodeo grounds and the Maui Roping Club. In early July the Makawao Rodeo attracts the best paniolos in the state. The winding road toward Olinda is bordered with huge gum trees, flower farms, and ranches hidden amid the lush greenery.

To get the paniolo experience firsthand, mosey over to the island of Molokai. It's more laid back than Maui.

"This is the rush hour," says Kippy, our driver, as we travel the deserted road from the airport to the 54,000-acre Sheraton Molokai Lodge & Beach Village.

The resort is a 102-year-old working ranch with 500 head of cattle and about 100 horses. Whether you plan to play paniolo or not, you must sign the Participation Agreement at check-in. It absolves the hotel of responsibility for any kind of injury.

Wild West wannabes gladly sign the document because this place is cowboy heaven. Many resorts offer horseback riding, but at the Sheraton Molokai it is possible to ride with ranch hands along the world's highest sea cliffs. Guests who want to test their horsemanship can participate in rodeo activities. The Paniolo Round-Up offers a chance to learn skills in cattle herding, penning, and sorting.